Some collaborations feel inevitable. Others arrive completely out of left field and instantly become one of the year’s most compelling releases. The new Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed With Naoya Hida & Co. firmly belongs in the latter category.
Limited to just ten pieces worldwide, this platinum dress watch combines a movement deeply woven into Zenith’s history with the meticulous design philosophy that has made Naoya Hida & Co. one of the most admired names in modern independent watchmaking. The result is a watch that feels less like a conventional collaboration and more like a meeting of two cultures united by a shared obsession with precision, restraint, and craftsmanship.
Zenith’s Legacy of Precision
Founded in 1865 in Le Locle, Switzerland, Zenith has spent more than 160 years building a reputation around technical excellence. While many collectors immediately associate the brand with the groundbreaking El Primero chronograph, Zenith’s history extends far beyond high-frequency timing.
Throughout the mid-20th century, Zenith established itself as one of the dominant forces in observatory chronometer competitions. Among its greatest achievements was the legendary Calibre 135, a movement specifically engineered for precision timekeeping and competition performance.
The movement earned hundreds of chronometry awards during the 1950s and became one of the most celebrated manually wound calibres ever produced. For serious collectors, the Calibre 135 represents a golden era when watchmakers competed not for complications or prestige marketing, but for pure mechanical accuracy.
Earlier this year, Zenith revived that legacy with the launch of the modern G.F.J. collection, named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot. Now, the manufacture has taken the concept in a fascinating new direction.
The Rise of Naoya Hida & Co.
While Zenith represents one of Swiss watchmaking’s great historical houses, Naoya Hida & Co. embodies the modern independent movement.
Founded in Tokyo by Naoya Hida in 2018, the company quickly gained a devoted following among collectors who appreciate understated design and extraordinary attention to detail. Production numbers remain exceptionally small, allowing the brand to focus on hand-finished elements, traditional typography, and a uniquely Japanese interpretation of classic watchmaking.
Rather than chasing trends, Naoya Hida & Co. has built its reputation through refinement, subtlety, and a relentless pursuit of perfection. Its watches often appear deceptively simple at first glance, only revealing their complexity through closer inspection.
That philosophy makes the partnership with Zenith particularly intriguing.
A Collaboration Built on Shared Values
The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed With Naoya Hida & Co. is not simply a Zenith with an extra logo on the dial.
Instead, the project reimagines the G.F.J. through the lens of Naoya Hida’s design language. The watch retains the celebrated Calibre 135 movement while introducing numerous aesthetic refinements that reflect Japanese artisanal traditions.
The dial is arguably the star of the show. Crafted from sterling silver, it features intricate hand-engraved detailing that creates remarkable depth and texture without sacrificing elegance. The dual signatures balance Swiss heritage and Japanese craftsmanship in a way that feels natural rather than forced.
The overall design remains restrained, allowing the workmanship to speak for itself.
Specifications and Details
Beneath the beautifully executed exterior sits the manually wound Calibre 135, delivering a robust 72-hour power reserve and displaying hours, minutes, and small seconds.
The watch is housed in a platinum case and carries the reference 40.1865-2.0135/01.C220.
In a particularly thoughtful touch, Zenith includes three distinct straps, each highlighting a different aspect of Japanese craftsmanship:
- Himeji Kurozan leather
- Kyoto-sourced Wagyu leather
- Japanese non-stretch denim from Kaihara
Together, they offer dramatically different personalities while maintaining the watch’s refined character.
Production is limited to only 10 pieces, with a retail price of $75,000.
Why This Release Matters
Collectors have seen no shortage of collaborations in recent years, but few feel as authentic as this one. The partnership works because both brands occupy similar philosophical territory despite coming from entirely different watchmaking traditions.
Zenith contributes one of the most historically important chronometer movements ever created. Naoya Hida & Co. contributes a modern vision rooted in craftsmanship, restraint, and obsessive detail. Neither overshadows the other.
The result is a watch that feels genuinely special in a market often crowded with collaborations driven more by marketing than meaning. For collectors fortunate enough to secure one of the ten examples, the appeal extends far beyond rarity. This is a watch that captures a dialogue between Swiss precision and Japanese artistry, demonstrating how heritage and independence can complement one another when the right partners come together.
More importantly, it suggests an exciting future for thoughtful cross-cultural collaborations in high-end watchmaking—projects that create something genuinely new rather than merely combining familiar names.
