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The Best Watch Releases This Week: Purple Seikos, a Restored Valjoux 72, and a Dutch Dress Watch That Sold Out in Nine Minutes

From a 145th-anniversary Seiko collection dressed head-to-toe in Edo purple to Panerai's featherweight Carbotech Luminor, this week's novelties prove that heritage and material science are having a very good August.

Some weeks in watchmaking feel like a slow news cycle. This was not one of them. Between a Dutch independent brand selling out an entire limited edition before most collectors had finished their coffee, and Singer taking a scalpel to one of the most revered chronograph movements in history, the past seven days delivered exactly the kind of releases that remind you why this hobby is so addictive. Here’s every one of them, broken down.

 

 

Seiko’s Edo Purple 145th Anniversary Collection

Seiko marks its 145th anniversary with a six-piece collection dressed head-to-toe in Edo-murasaki, a deep purple named after Tokyo’s historic moniker. The Prospex Alpinist HBC006 wears a brushed purple dial with gold accents in a 39.5mm case, running the Caliber 6R55 with a 72-hour reserve, limited to 7,000 pieces at $900. The Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph HBJ005 pairs a softer purple dial and bezel accent with the V192 solar movement in a 41.4mm case, capped at 8,000 pieces for $750. The flagship Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph HAB011 combines titanium and ceramic in a 43.3mm case with a horizontally striped purple dial and the satellite-syncing 5X83 calibre, limited to 2,000 pieces at $2,700. On the dressier side, the Presage Cocktail Time HCB006 takes its hue from a bespoke cocktail developed with mixologist Hisashi Kishi of STAR BAR, running the 4R34 calibre in a 40.5mm case, limited to 6,000 pieces at $625. The 5 Sports SKX HDB003 brings the same purple to a 42.5mm sports-diver case with the workhorse 4R36 automatic, limited to 9,999 pieces at $450. And the retro digital “Rotocall” HFL001, based on the 1982 original, pairs a black case with a purple aluminium bezel, limited to 4,000 pieces at $595.

 

 

Singer Reimagined Heritage V72

Singer’s newest release doesn’t reinterpret history — it restores it. The Heritage V72 is powered by genuine new-old-stock Valjoux 72 movements, the tricompax calibre that powered sports chronographs from Rolex to Heuer between 1938 and 1974. Each movement is disassembled and rebuilt with frosted bridges, hand-polished chamfers, and rhodium plating, all visible through a glassbox sapphire caseback, while the original 44-hour reserve and 18,000vph beat rate stay untouched. The 38.8mm case is available in steel (CHF 23,000, limited to 50 pieces) or 18k gold (CHF 45,000, limited to 20).

 

 

Grøne Oldenzaal Horologium

Few releases this week moved faster than the Grönefeld brothers’ latest from their accessible sub-brand. Housed in a 39mm x 10mm steel case with signature stepped lugs and orange-gasketed sapphire crystals, the Horologium arrives in a Dutch-orange “Quirky” edition and a sunray-salmon “Classic” edition, both running a hand-wound La Joux-Perret G100 with 60 hours of reserve. Limited to 188 pieces per variant at EUR 2,390, it reportedly sold out within nine minutes of going live.

 

 

Seiko 5 Sports x Honda Motocompo HDB010

Marking 45 years of Honda’s cult folding scooter, the HDB010 wears a matte black hard-coated 36.4mm case and a vivid yellow dial referencing the Motocompo’s bodywork, complete with a “TURN”-engraved crown and a nylon strap marked “Carrying Point.” It runs the tried-and-tested 4R36 automatic calibre and is limited to 8,000 pieces at roughly EUR 400.

 

 

Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707

Panerai pushes its proprietary Carbotech material further with this 44mm Luminor Marina, built entirely from carbon fibre pressed with PEEK polymer — around 80% lighter than steel and bringing total weight down to roughly 100 grams despite the imposing dimensions. A date-free, beige-lumed sandwich dial nods to 1960s military Panerais, while the P.9010 calibre delivers a three-day power reserve. It’s non-limited, priced at EUR 15,200.

 

 

Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 Date

Baltic’s second-generation dive watch finally gets a date function, discreetly placed at 6 o’clock instead of 3 to preserve dial symmetry. Available in 37mm or 39.5mm cases across four dial colours, it runs a Miyota 9015 with a 42-hour reserve and starts at EUR 655 on rubber strap.

 

 

Chronoswiss Small Second Jasper & Serpentine

Chronoswiss joins the stone-dial trend with two 40mm Small Second models: a golden-brown Jasper sourced from Idar-Oberstein, Germany, and a vivid green, bi-metal Serpentine with a red-gold bezel and crown. Both run the in-house C.6000 calibre with a 55-hour reserve, and each is limited to 50 pieces, priced at £12,200 and £17,900 respectively.

 

 

Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour ‘Ultimus’

British marque Fears closes out its Brunswick Jump Hour story with the ‘Ultimus’, developed with watch personality Andrew Morgan. The 40.5mm cushion case houses a Sellita SW200 base fitted with Christopher Ward’s JJ01 jump-hour module and a 38-hour reserve, wrapped in a Phantom White dial with a luminous ceramic centre. It’s available only during a one-week order window, priced from £4,450.

 

 

The Takeaway

If there’s a thread running through this week’s releases, it’s that brands are increasingly willing to lean into extremes: Seiko’s saturated purple, Singer’s obsessive restoration, Panerai’s material science, and Grøne’s near-instant sellout all point to a market that rewards conviction over safety. Watch this space — literally — for how these limited runs perform on the secondary market in the months ahead.

 

 

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